Maui Adventure - Day 3 - Hosmer Grove

[Composed 1/3/2026]

I was skeptical about hiking Haleakala National Park's Hosmer Grove. This short hiking trail winds through a failed 1909 forestry experiment by, you guessed it, Mr. Ralph Hosmer. Did I really need to see more non-native forests in Hawaii?

Thankfully I ignored this snarky sentiment, and as we descended from Haleakala's summit we turned off the main road, and headed to the the small campground and hiking area that is Hosmer Grove.

Even before we explored the grove, I came across these two fine specimens:

These are Nene, or native Hawaiian geese. While related to the Canada goose, these birds have been residents of Hawaii long enough that they've become optimized for a world filled with lava flows and not wetlands. First silverswords, and now Nene--we were on a native species run. This sighting alone made the trip to the grove worth it. But wait, there's more!

The first thing I noticed while walking on the short nature trail was the smell. The cedar trees were especially fragrant; what an unexpected treat. In fact, many of the trees in the grove are quite towering, so while they may be alien, they're still quite impressive.

But the real win of the day was getting to watch the I'iwi, tiny, brightly colored birds, with distincively hooked beaks, flit from tree to tree to nosh on nectar. The grove is at 7,000 feet: low enough that vegetation thrives, but high enough that mosquitoes don't, so it's prime I'iwi territory.

The secret to glimpsing the I'iwi was explained to me by a hiker lugging a DSLR with a massive lens. The bird is after the flower's nectar, so plant yourself in front of trees with blooming flowers and wait. The advice was solid, and I didn't have to wait long before the birds made an appearance.

Lacking a tripod and high powered lens, I struggled to get photos with my phone. Here's about the best I could do:

My compact Pentax Papilio II binoculars served me quite well in the grove and on this trip in general. They let me get sharp, close up views of the birds, all with minimal bulk and weight. But alas, I didn't have a way to capture this perspective.

In most respects, the cell phone plus lightweight binocs are the perfect combination. With the cell phone tucked in my pocket and binoculars in a small case on my belt, I hardly notice the gear until I need it. But what does it mean that I can't share photos of what I'm actually seeing? The photographer in me finds this utterly disappointing. But the practical side of this set up is hard to argue with. Like many gear optimization questions, this one remains unanswered.

It's not unusual for nature trails to promise the opportunity to see exotic wildlife; but in the case of Hosmer Grove, it delivered. This hike is a must do. Come prepared to slow down and see some of Hawaii's most impressive natives.